Barcelona

Spain’s second city which is often mistaken as the country’s capital, Barcelona is a located on the Balearic Sea and has been inhabited since approximately 2000 BC. Strategically positioned between land and sea, the city has a rich historical past and was invaded by the Romans, Germans and French before becoming part of the Spanish empire under the Crown of Aragon. Barcelona is the capital of the community of Catalonia; part of the Spanish nation but with it’s own language, customs and traditions which make it unique and distinctly different.

Barcelona became home to the modernist movement in the 20th century where painters, architects and designers created incredible buildings and works of art, leaving marks on the city for which it is now world-renowned. One of the greatest protagonists for this movement was Antoni Gaudi, whose personal stamp on Barcelona is unlike any other.

One of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe, Barcelona has it all in spades; great weather, museums and galleries, a great music and dance scene, the sea and beaches, a lively atmosphere and a cosmopolitan cocktail of people and culture.

When to go: March-October most temperate weather. Summers in the city are extremely hot; avoid July and August if you struggle in heat and humidity.

Essentials to pack: Trainers, swimwear, cool loose clothing, Barcelona pocket guidebook

Currency: Euro - £1 = €1.15

Must see: La Sagrada Familia, Casa Battlo, Casa Mila, Park Guell, Museu Picasso, La Rambla, La Catedral, Gothic Quarter, the beaches!

How to get there: Train from London to Paris (www.eurostar.com) and then Paris to Barcelona (www.trainline.com) approx. £450 return, 8 hours of travel time each way. Bus from London to Barcelona approx. £200 return, 24 hours travel time each way (www.flixbus.com). 2 hour flights from London to Barcelona approx. £80 return (more in peak summer periods).

Public transport: The metro system is king in Barcelona; it is fast and efficient and runs round the clock (with reduced services during the night). Buy tickets for trains prior to getting on at nearby machines - they accept card or cash payments. Tip: We bought multiple single trip tickets in one go so that we didn’t have to stop and buy tickets every time we got on the Metro. There is also a discount for buying a 10-trip ticket. The metro also has great aircon on most lines - so if you’re feeling the heat, go down and ride a few stops to soak up some cold air!

Where to stay: Having stayed in Barcelona a couple of times, I have found that the NH hotels are a great option; with 9 locations across the city, on our most recent visit we stayed at the NH Sants hotel, as it was close to the train station that we arrived into the city from (Barcelona Sants) and would be leaving the city from. The metro station located at Sants has two lines - with direct stops at La Sagrada Familia and La Rambla amongst other major attractions we found this location a great one. We paid £250 for two nights here which is more than we would usually fork out but the four star hotel delivered on luxury and comfort. There was free iced water and sweets in the lobby and the room had everything you could want from a hotel stay.

Attractions card: You can buy the Barcelona ‘city card’ which are active for certain periods of time and allow you access at multiple tourist attractions across the city. It also covers unlimited free metro and bus journeys. Prices start from 48 euros for the 3 day pass, and go up to 63 euros for a 5 day pass. Check out the website here for the attractions it covers - https://www.barcelonacard.org/.

5 day itinerary:

Day 1:

You’ve arrived in Barcelona and you couldn’t be more excited to explore. Once you’ve checked into your hotel and got rid of your cumbersome luggage, head out and find La Rambla. A 1.25km strip of flower stalls, street performers, produce markets, grand buildings, bars and shops. The beating heart of Barcelona and it’s most lively area, it’s worth spending a few hours here to start with, and also worth visiting at daytime and in the evening. Just off La Rambla is Mercat de la Boqueria; the central market whose building was completed in 1914, great for fresh local produce, enjoyable for the chaos of noise, people and smells which assault you on arrival, and a must-visit for lunch at Bar Pinotxo.

Once you’ve strolled the entire length of La Rambla and taken in it’s many sights, head to Plaça Reial, a paved square lined with palm trees, bars and cafe’s, get yourself a sangria and sit at one of the many bars around the square to people watch.

After you’ve had your drink, Plaça Reial is a great walkway through to the Gothic Quarter, if you leave by the opposite corner to where you came in off La Rambla. Turn left and right at your leisure; walking down narrow cobbled streets in the Gothic Quarter is a thoroughly enjoyable pastime. You will come across quaint shops, ancient apartment buildings, restaurants and important historical buildings such as the town hall and La Catedral, whose gothic structure anchors Barcelona firmly in its’ past, the solid and masculine form a perfect counter to the swirls and femininity of La Sagrada.

If you’ve worked up an apetite, head to Allium for some food - the only place I know of in the city which serves a paella for one, and great tapas too. Open all day instead of closing for siesta time, it’s a safe bet no matter what time you are sightseeing.

Day 2:

Starting off strong today, take the metro or walk to La Sagrada Familia and do the 1 hour long guided tour; it costs around 15 euros and is very interesting, but the price is worth it alone to enter Sagrada and marvel at the ceilings inside. I would also recommend paying an extra few euros to go up in the lifts to see the views from the towers. Top tip - if you buy your entry tickets online you can skip the queues on arrival.

After you’ve had your mind blown by Gaudi’s archtiectural prowess and appreciated the fact that the building of this structure began in 1882 and is still not finished, go to a cafe in the square outside for a well deserved coffee and soak up the view of the exterior of the largest Catholic church in the world.

A short walk after your coffee takes you to Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera. Considered one of Gaudi’s greatest achievements, Casa Mila was originally designed as an apartment building but the use of space and light and blurred concepts between functionality and art are incredibly conceived. To enter is around 17 euros and the audio guide is an additional 5 euros but more than worth it for the depth of information provided. If you are visiting in the summer, from Thursday to Saturday, Casa Mila hosts open air concerts on the roof - be sure to check out if there’s one on during your trip!

Head to nearby pastry shop Mauri which dates back to 1929; to keep yourself going through your busy day of sightseeing, grab a pastry or sweet bun for which the shop is famous.

Just around the corner is Casa Batllo, my personal highlight in the city. Again designed and created by Gaudi, Casa Batllo is a whimsical dream of a building with swirls and crevices so dramatic that you will wonder how it stays standing. Gaudi’s imagination and determination is showcased fully in this building where straight lines cease to exist and the use of coloured glass and tiles alongside the endless curvatures make the building appear like a living thing. Tickets cost around 25 euros including an audio guide and you could easily spend a few hours here with your jaw firmly dropped to the ground in fascination at the beauty and originality of it all.

On leaving Casa Batllo you will be on Passeig de Gracia, which is Barcelona’s biggest shopping area, so spend some time wandering around high street and designer stores which crowd either side of this road. After you’ve shopped til’ you’ve dropped, head to nearby Cerveseria Catalania for some of the city’s best tapas; grab a seat at the bar to enjoy the chaotic calls from staff and patrons, sitting elbow to elbow with other diners and watching the chefs cook up a storm.

Day 3:

You get a day to relax today, after yesterdays showstopper of a tour through the city and Barcelona’s (Gaudi’s) architectural triumphs.

Head to Barceloneta for a stroll through a neighbourhood predominantly housing locals. It’s a nice thing that the metro doesn’t reach the beach here, encouraging you to walk down the portside promenade Passeig de Joan de Borbo where sailboats and superyachts bob in the marina. For breakfast go to Baluard Barceloneta, one of the city’s best bakeries. Once you’ve had your fill, take in a waterfront stroll along Platja de la Barceloneta beach; great for families, or Platja de Sant Sebastia, both of which host long sweeps of golden sand and transport you away from the chaos of the city.

If you’re a beach bum, settle down on one of these beaches to soak up the sun, swim in the sea and enjoy the perks of a city built on the waterfront. If you find yourself fidgety, stroll down the 1.25km long promenade all the way to the restaurant lined marina at Port Olimpic.

For lunch go to the top floor of Museu d’Historia de Catalunya to reach the 1881 restaurant whose outdoor terrace has lovely marina views, with elegantly served fresh seafood. If you prefer lively bars, or want a local beer after your lunch, head to Vaso de Oro where the beer is brewed on site and the tapas is great.

Day 4:

Book your ticket in advance for Park Guell - yes it is a park but the ticketed entry system means it can sell out (as Tom and I found after traipsing a few kilometres uphill in 30 degree heat)! It’s around 10 euros to enter and worth it to see Barcelona’s famous park, once again designed by Gaudi. The nearest metro to the park is Vallcarca where the uphill walk from the metro station is helped by escalators.

Designed as a gated and luxurious playground for Barcelona’s elite society, Park Guell climbs a hillside north of the city and is where Gaudi turned his hand to landscaping and gardening, resulting in expansive green spaces interspersed with iconic structures made of ceramics and tiles. Gaudi’s fantastical character and imagination can again be seen through the park with the space used in such creative ways it surpasses all expectations and the flow of the parkland which provides incredible views over the city is unrivalled.

After you’ve taken in all of the parks many faces, head 1km south for lunch at La Panxa del Bisbe for great tapas and to rest your feet after all that walking and climbing!

Heading back into town via foot or metro, a visit to Museu Picasso is in order. Located in La Riberia, the closest metro is Jaume I. Entry is around 15 euros and similar to La Sagrada, it is advisable to buy tickets online in advance to ensure that you can skip the queues. Top tip: If you are visiting on the first Sunday of the month or after 3pm on any Sunday, entry is free (but queues are long, as my sister and I found on a visit on the first Sunday of the month a few years back!).

With 16 rooms dedicated to different time periods and art styles, the museum is a showcase of Picasso’s early artworks, from when he was a teenager through to his blue period and the rose period; all works prior to the cubism work he is most well known for. Picasso spent many years living and working in Barcelona hence the dedication to his work being located in a museum here.

Get your dancing shoes on as you’re off for drinks in Sant Antoni, starting at Tinta Roja; an intimate place for a drink and sometimes hosting live music or a show. Bar hop your way towards Sala Apolo, stopping at Chulapio Cocktails & Crepes on the way for a some sangria and a savoury crepe (or three). Sala Apolo is an old theatre with red velvet themes throughout, where shows and concerts take place earlier in the evening but after midnight a DJ takes over. On the way don’t miss JazzSi Club Music Workshop, where salsa dancing and Latin nights are frequent and fun. You’re also only a ten minute walk back to Plaça Reial where Jamboree Jazz and Dance club puts on a great show for those still standing after the exploits of the evening!

Day 5:

Your last day in the city, which wouldn’t be complete without a visit out to Camp Nou, home of FC Barcelona and one of the greatest stadiums in Europe. Head there for a nose around the outside or a stadium tour to get a feel for just how big it is; a capacity of nearly 100,000 doesn’t come in size small! NOTE: On our visit in July 2023 they had just begun knocking down the ground in order to rebuild and modernise it - with the new stadium due to be completed by 2026. We actually went out to see the ground in it’s current state of collapse and saw demolition action taking place which was quite interesting. But don’t expect a stadium tour any time soon!

If you’re in the area and peckish, Bar Tomas is famed for it’s Patatas Bravas and hailed by locals as the best place in the city to have them. Head back into the centre of the city by metro, stopping off at Sant Antoni to visit Mercat de Sant Antoni; another vibrant locals’ market with small pop up bars and restaurants inside.

Walk slowly down Carrer de Sant Antoni and it will lead you all the way back to La Rambla. A great place to spend your final few hours in Barcelona, soaking up the sights and sounds. End your time in the city in the place you started it, and perhaps treat yourself to a pricier drink or meal at one of the many dining options that run the length of La Rambla, people watching and taking in your last impressions from a city that, let’s face it, has it all.

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